disco fingers

It's probably clear to anyone who checks here often that i think style is important when you surf. I think everyone has an innate type of style, a natural look to the way they surf, be it smooth as silk like Dane Peterson, nonchalant like Lopez at pipe or just plain different like Alex Knost.
Although it is possible to work at surfing in a certain way, it always looks slightly contrived compared those who are lucky enough to have good style naturally. Obviously "good style" is a very subjective judgement and to a certain extent a personal assessment.
I've spent a lot of time watching video of people surfing, both other peoples films and the footage that went into my two. After a while it's very easy to identify different people from the way they move, the body positions they adopt, even if they are riding similar equipment, doing similar things, on similar waves.
I'd like to think i am at least a little smooth when i surf but my own weird style quirk is pointing my index fingers, especially on my left hand. Don't ask me why, i'm not sure it is crucial to successful balancing, but i do it on a skateboard or a snowboard too. Check the photos!

musings part two

< just add tourists!

I had a fun surf last night at semi-clean 3 foot saunton. First time in a 3/2 this year which is always a pleasure. I came to the conclusion that i am lucky enough to own some bitchin' boards at the moment, yesterday's steed was my 5'9 Bro diplock quad, heavily based on Mani Caros template with AK4 fins. Turns like it's on rails and a lovely spring from the fins out of the turn. Good times.

I recently came across easytom's blog detailing his learning to surf adventures and the lessons therein. He's right at the beginning of a wonderful adventure, just at the cusp of full blown obsession. It's good advice for newbies and a fun reminder of when it was all new and exciting for the old salts. It's a long slippery slope from here that can only end with him living in a car with only a dog and a tide table for company