Thursday 31 July 2014

shiny toys for sale..........

BGA is having a bit of a quiver cull and has some tasty boards up for sale, apologies for the crappy pictures!

9'9 Thomas Campbell / Junod Pignar

pic above

Proper pig, surfs really great and looks beautiful. Wish i could buy it! This was one of the first few Junod and t mo made together £750 Very rare, maybe the only one in the UK!

9'8 Junod Two tone noserider

This is michels everyday log, slightly wide point back shape, smooth controlled pocket noserides and pivoty turns. Glass on single fin, lovely glass job £550

6'6 Joel Tudor Karma

THE egg tudor rode everywhere a few years ago (think shelter dvd, sprout etc) £450

You can email BGA at

Contacthim quick before he changes his mind!

Monday 28 July 2014

all about chemistry

In this case it's film processed outside its normal environment causing good things to happen.

What an amazing little run of summer swell last week! Too many fun logging waves to count, bare arm paddling, salty smiles and sunburnt shoulders. I try to be all grown up and mature about going surfing but man i LOVE it!

Completely random song posting, havent heard it foryears, it just popped into my head in the line up the other day

Wednesday 23 July 2014

from the shed

Yet another SeaPea shot. It's been getting a lot of water time recently. It's amazing how much fun a little board can make a 2 foot windswell day. My shortboarding still lags behind my logging ability-wise but it's a blast all the same. It's definately going to be in the van for our annual trip to france in a few weeks

Friday 18 July 2014

for miles

Someone was asking me the other day which longboarders i thought had good style. It's not an exhaustive list but i come back to segments from the following time and again

Dane Peterson - smooth flowing jive and catlike grace
Jimmy Gamboa
Joel Tudor - smooth and precise
Jai Lee
Tyler Warren - love watching him on shorter boards too

Monday 14 July 2014


Another SEAPEA convert, they're addictive things to ride although I guess surfing itself is pretty addictive.

There's a massive wave in front of me, awesome in its beauty, terrifying in its power. It's been out there for miles, a pure visceral force of nature, driven by gravity. It fills my vision, my blood pounds in my ears as my breathing shallows. I should be scratching for safety but it's so perfect I'm caught, a rabbit in the headlights, mesmerised. I know what's coming yet am helpless before it, just a tiny speck in a raging sea, stomach in free fall as it feathers and breaks over me. Plunging me down, disorientating yet all encompassing, my heart straining so much it hurts. I'm fighting to breathe but there's no more air down here. Rag-dolling out of control at the mercy of a power bigger than me, bigger than any of  us, there's no fight just acceptance.

 I surface feeling more alive than before, searching the horizon, craving that feeling again. I know it's there.

Wednesday 9 July 2014

fish scales and tall tales

What with all the SeaPea related excitement, i hadn't ridden a keel fish for ages until the other day. Pretty much on a whim i paddled my 5'8 mabile out on a tiny day, really way too small for anything but a log. It felt tiny and thin compared to a mini simmons despite being half a foot longer. I'd be lying if i said it was an epic session but there was a lot of satisfaction from generating speed and getting a couple of turns in on a tiny gutless wave. In summer everything is fun right?

Friday 4 July 2014

the view from here...

I've been slowly getting more egg curious over the last few months. Inspired by Devon Howards instagram feed and a conversation i had with him a few years ago, back when Loose fit surfshop first opened. I've never owned a proper californian style egg and there's a hole in my quiver between 5'8 and 9'4 that some kind of midlength would happily fill. Part of the fun in ordering a board is agonising over the who's and the how's and the exactly whats. I think i've got my decision made but it's one thats likely to require some patience.

I'll keep you posted...
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