Monday, 29 July 2013

a matter of perspective

a moody view of one of my favorite waves. 

Another example of how a little adventure in a direction different from the usual rails that life runs on cna unlock a fresh perspective on thingsyou see every day.

Thursday, 25 July 2013

logs 11

It's been a month for the big boards and kayaks both here and in France where i scored some fun size wave in boardshorts with the last pulse of swell. If you have never experienced the pleasure of paddling with bare shoulders, i can highly reccomend it!

Sunday, 21 July 2013

as far as the eye can see.....

It may be cliched but these are genuinely welsh sheep completely unmoved by the empty line up and pumping swell laid out beneath them.

Wednesday, 17 July 2013

mobile home

The van, specifically the VW t4/t5 and to a lesser extent the Merc vito, hold a special place in UK surf culture. I think perhaps in a way that is different to their place in the rest of europe or the in US where the big pick up truck holds more "beach cool"

Maybe it's to do with our more inclement weather and the more fickle nature of our waves. Whatever the reason, it's a mobile home, kitchen , changing room, board shed, bedroom or sanctuary from the world outside, a good van is an essential to a fully realised British surfing life.

Mine is currently parked up overlooking some sweet French beach break while i ponder which of my toys to play with......

Saturday, 13 July 2013

shelf life

The gulfstream factory's store of sanding disks and rather randomly, odd wetsuit boots!
 If you've never spent any time in a surfboard factory, it's difficult to explain just how dusty they are. Even ten minutes inside and the fine white powder finds it's way everywhere. There's something magic about the smell of resin and possibilities, the thousands of wave based adventures lying as potential within the stack of blanks, waiting to be unlocked by skilled shapers eye and hands and skilled surfers feet.

Tuesday, 9 July 2013

heed the call

Van Diemans Waters from Nicholas Damen on Vimeo.

I posted a link to this a while back but it's worth a second viewing to stir the juices on a workday morning. Flawless sliding from the ever stylish Chonno and friends!

With any luck i will be doing a passable impression of this later!

Friday, 5 July 2013

welsh lines

Journeyed from under milk wood to meet lines that travelled from afar.

Monday, 1 July 2013

great expectations...

Surfing is a funny thing sometimes, the most fun sessions can come from the most inauspicious beginnings. Conversely sometimes the expectations of a great session are high and it just doesn't quite deliver.

Last time i rode my Mccallum mford was what i can best describe as a shocker! Lovely 3 foot offshore day but people everywhere, tired arms and i just couldn't get into a rhythm. Everywhere i sat was the wrong spot. I left the water deflated amid others joyous tales of fun waves.

Fast forward a couple of weeks and i sneak off after kids story time to catch the evening high tide glass off. Calling it thigh high would have been charitable and the tide dictated short sections and close outs. I grabbed the Mccallum again on a whim, expecting only the extra excercise of paddling a 5'6 instead of a 9'6 around. How wrong i was, over the course of an hour i hooked into quite a few tiny reelers with sections to race and spray to throw. I rushed home with the fading light feeling more alive and with the fire duly stoked. A timely reminder of the capability of the mini simmons platform to add excitement to junk waves!

Sometimes the most fun comes when you least expect!
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