early birds

Dawn Patrolling

go west?!

troenen

A slightly unusual beach hut? 

Really it's one of the many abandoned German bunkers that littler the beaches of France. Thankfully us Brits are assured a warmer welcome now than we were 70 years ago!

I got a copy of the new Captain fin movie, "Rip shred tear" last week. Pretty short but some really high quality logging from the usual suspects on show. Highly reccomended!

tonight i'll call you from the 4th st payphone....

sleep on the beach if we aint got a ride

they are waves jim....

 but not as we know it....... The Gardner contemplates another wasted lie in!

heading home

sated strollers.....

Another crew heading home (hopefully) stoked after their dawnie. These chaps had a very fine zeph bing indy noserider and a coop to aid in their morning stokemining. Left me thinking there's still a little room in my shed :-)

In Other News, I am excited to report that i'm featured in this months Devon Life magazine as a surfer who has a "proper" job. I'd love to say it's nothing to do with the fact that my friend writes for them but i'd probably be misleading you!

waxing up

One little pre surf ritual that unites us all, whatever and wherever you surf!

happy faces

There's something special about the first day of a new swell. A palpable excitement in the air, the carpark filled with happy faces and anticipation. Often it means seeing people for the first time in a couple of weeks, especially in winter. The air is filled with the sounds of van doors closing, wax being rubbed onto boards and friendly banter as everyone gears up to hit the water, sure of fun waves in good company.

For me it's even more special if it's early on a crisp autumn morning like this day, a rare morning when the only people at the beach were the regulars and a few early risers walking their dogs.

Although we moan about the number of people in the water, in reality, i'm sure surfing in solitude the whole time would be pretty boring. I have no doubt that the interaction between the regular faces "sharing the stoke" to use a hackneyed phrase, and the sense of community that each beach has, really adds something to the surfing experience for me.

Our beach is long enough to get a good peak to yourself if you are prepared to hike far enough yet most of us rarely bother unless the crowd numbers are past ridiculous. Happy to sacrifice a few waves a session to others for the pleasure of shared experiences

In case you were wondering, chest high & reeling, keel fish & big smiles!

anticipation