As commutes go, it's not a bad one.
So i'm trying hard to keep this all surfing related generally but as i type this i'm in france and it's raining, massive and onshore so i aint surfing today, in fact as surf trips go, this one has pretty much sucked.
As you all know, surfing and waves in general are fickle beasts. For every hour surfing we spend precious few minutes actually stood up and riding waves and countless more watching, waiting, hoping for somthing to happen. That puts surfing at odds as a "sport" with most other conventional sports. Take tennis or swimming or football (or most anything else) Once you have negotiated a window to go do them, it's pretty much just a case of turning up and playing. Even skateboarding and snowboarding, our closest cousins, are the same, theres always something to ride on the mountain and skate spots only change slowly over time.
Book a week or two at the beach though, especially if it's a european beach break and you could luck into 10 days of perfect warm swell or the hundred year storm and the ensuing fall out. This holiday has definately trended towards the latter........
Patience is key but in our ever more busy lives it's a difficult lesson to learn!
So i'm trying hard to keep this all surfing related generally but as i type this i'm in france and it's raining, massive and onshore so i aint surfing today, in fact as surf trips go, this one has pretty much sucked.
As you all know, surfing and waves in general are fickle beasts. For every hour surfing we spend precious few minutes actually stood up and riding waves and countless more watching, waiting, hoping for somthing to happen. That puts surfing at odds as a "sport" with most other conventional sports. Take tennis or swimming or football (or most anything else) Once you have negotiated a window to go do them, it's pretty much just a case of turning up and playing. Even skateboarding and snowboarding, our closest cousins, are the same, theres always something to ride on the mountain and skate spots only change slowly over time.
Book a week or two at the beach though, especially if it's a european beach break and you could luck into 10 days of perfect warm swell or the hundred year storm and the ensuing fall out. This holiday has definately trended towards the latter........
Patience is key but in our ever more busy lives it's a difficult lesson to learn!
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