As the winter sets in and the colours of summer are long gone, it's   easy to sink into reverie and dreams of warmer climes, but maybe there's  still happiness to be found within the montone seascape.
For many of us  there's no escape from the cold and we must greet the  winter face on, the gloom, the damp, the light so flat the horizon is  lost in the sky. Endlessly watching the forecast hoping for the  prevailing southwesterlies to abate for the bittersweet triumph of  stolen moments in offshores.  Freezing wind from the east  blowing the  mess to corduroy and then to ironed cloth.
You could send yourself mad with the longing but it's better to  embrace the dark  mornings, the frost on the inside of the windscreen  that never clears  quick enough, the teeth of the wind biting into  exposed flesh as you  struggle into the wetsuit that never quite dries,  the shock of the first  duck dive as you struggle through lines of  whitewater, battling current  and wind beyond the break.
Because if you look, through the  waiting, the discomfort, the grey  light, the grimace as your suit fills with 6 degree  water for the first  time, there's still that little spark of fun and  stoke that keeps you  coming back. Still the need to grasp that elusive sliding feeling we are  all addicted to. Still the afterglow that warms you and  has nothing to  do with the van heater on full as you drive home,  reliving the waves  of the day.
It's still surfing and it still makes me   smile...............
 
5 comments:
hey there
still looking forward to your review of your Gato Heroi - you got it yet?!
Yeah I have. There's a tale attached to it though!
Strong,positive attitude Chris! I like it!
you said it!
tell us more re the Gato!!
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