Wednesday 30 December 2009
Thank you!
Monday 28 December 2009
Catch as catch can
Friday 25 December 2009
Wednesday 23 December 2009
Monday 21 December 2009
tis the season....
Thursday 17 December 2009
point concept
It's easy to think that the major developments in the shaping of hulls all happened years ago but people like Ryan are taking Liddle's ideas and pushing them forward, helping to get a new generation of surfers stoked on them.
Long live the joys of forward trim, and believe me, it is a joy!
Top Pic is taken by the highly talented Morgan Maasen,
This one by Ryan:
Monday 14 December 2009
silver lining
Wednesday 9 December 2009
Saturday 5 December 2009
long gone
Tuesday 1 December 2009
pazza...........
Christiaan Bailey just posted this neat profile of James on the mycornwall.tv site.
Friday 27 November 2009
hotdogs
Tuesday 24 November 2009
there's something about Vans....
Saturday 21 November 2009
Thursday 19 November 2009
Monday 16 November 2009
if6was9......
Friday 13 November 2009
happy faces
Tuesday 10 November 2009
a sense of balance
Saturday 7 November 2009
Go Jools!
So congrats to Jools, it's well deserved and anyone in the market for a new fish (or log or anything else) would do well to give him a call!
support your local shaper!
Wednesday 4 November 2009
Sunday 1 November 2009
another burner.....
Thursday 29 October 2009
The British Surfing Museum
Monday 26 October 2009
Friday 23 October 2009
one day in woolacombe
Richard Gregory aka wavedreamer has been working on his "One Day" concept for the last couple of years. It's finally taken the form of a series of short films, all shot over a twentyfour hour period at a single location, set to a soundtrack that was recorded in twenty four hours too. Not like he wants to put himself under any pressure then!
Intended to be a celebration of surfing in this country, the first film was shot on a lovely sunny day, a few of weeks ago and will be out on dvd this winter. We were blessed with a small clean swell and plenty of people made the effort to be there in front of the cameras. There was some great surfing going on & given Rich's perfectionism & eye for a good shot, i have no doubt the finished product will be a really great piece of surf cinema
Check the trailer below
I recently interviewed Rich for Drift and it should be up on their site a little closer to the release date so keep your eyes open for that.
awesome water shot taken two thirds of the way through THE day courtesy of the legend that is Jamie Bott
Tuesday 20 October 2009
Saturday 17 October 2009
moments before the green flash...
Wednesday 14 October 2009
a certain ratio
I put miles on the clock driving to beaches, sometimes at leisure, sometimes stressing to squeeze a quick shot of stoke into a boring work day. There's plenty of time spent shooting the breeze with fellow locals - who scored where, who's ripping, who's riding what. The minutes hurriedly shivering in and out of wetsuits or leisurely changing in the sun, depending on the season, mount up as the months pass by.
Sunday 11 October 2009
The Major
Thursday 8 October 2009
Monday 5 October 2009
old toy, new toy
Friday 2 October 2009
Wednesday 30 September 2009
Sunday 27 September 2009
Thursday 24 September 2009
Local Legend
Monday 21 September 2009
question....
Thursday 17 September 2009
sunset sessions
Tuesday 15 September 2009
microstoke....
Saturday 12 September 2009
Thursday 10 September 2009
the accomplished mr mason..
check it out here
Tuesday 8 September 2009
WOW!
Sunday 6 September 2009
ex world champ
Wednesday 2 September 2009
one more
There's an old bumper sticker, seen around california a few years ago: "One Fin, One God, One Country"
While I'm not in any way a religious man in the normal sense of the word, I am perhaps something of a zealot when it comes to my choice of logging equipment. I know there are sound performance reasons for choosing a 3 fin board but I've never found they work for me, their more drawn out turns don't fit naturally with how I want to surf, and as for bigger waves, in the words of Tmoe Campbell, "logging is a strictly under head high trip." (Don't even get me started on progressive longboarding!)
Thinking about this the other day lead me to an interesting question: Does your choice of equipment end up defining how you surf or do you end up choosing equipment that fits your natural style? It's probably a chicken and egg question but by way of illustration...
I spent a couple of hours surfing a friend's Junod Two-tone noserider the other day. It's a very "pig influenced shape" with lots of roll, wide hips and a narrow nose. Very much a pocket noserider and a beautiful board. I tend to surf with a fairly smooth (in my own mind) traditional style but with this particular steed, the more outrageous body english I attempted, the more it seemed to respond. Fixing in my minds eye a vision of Alex Knost style theatrics, I proceeded to have an absolute blast. Suddenly I could see where his style had it's roots and I'm sure that years of getting the most out of such a shape may have helped to define his approach. Jared Mell surfs similar boards and clearly has similar elements to his style too. Musing further, it's also clear that your local waves will have a massive influence both on style and choice of equipment. Piggy logs, for example, love clean steep waves but don't noseride especially well in the mushy windswell waves we deal with so frequently.
Not a conclusive answer or a scientific approach at all but something that made me think.
Monday 31 August 2009
Richie Lovett
Friday 28 August 2009
Walden talks magic (& other stuff!)
Awesome photos from Jamie Bott.
Thanks to Tim H & Tiki and Global Surf Industries (esp. Dan!)
Tuesday 25 August 2009
Design for life
Check the interview here
Thanks to Tim H & Tiki and Global Surf Industries (esp. Dan!)
Saturday 22 August 2009
hand crafted goodness
Wednesday 19 August 2009
caught inside
Clearing out an old bookcase the other day, i came across "Caught Inside" by Daniel Duane and was reminded quite how important a book it was to me at the start of my surfing obsession. I came to surfing pretty late after a mispent youth obsessed with skateboarding and snowboarding. Surfing had always appealed to me but living over 2 hours from the ocean and not being a strong swimmer it always seemed an unobtainable pursuit. Around the time that caught inside was published i found myself with a job, a car and time to make it to the beach. Funny to think how those first few forays into the whitewater came to define my life thereafter so much.
The book itself chronicles Duane's year after moving from Berekely to Santa Cruz to learn to surf. Once there he immerses himself in surfing, it's history and begins to meet some new friends, real surfers not those chasing sponsorsip. Much about the book appealed to me, the descriptions of isolated NorCal beaches somehow sounding similar to our rugged coast, the agony and ecstasy of the learning curve, the way that surfing finds it's way into your soul and the sense of community found between everyday surfers sharing waves.
I loved every page and have read it several times since. For me it described something i wanted to be part of, ultimately something i've since felt i had been searching for all along and it definately influenced me into prioritising moving to the coast.
I guess many of you will have read it already as it's ten years old, but if you haven't, treat yourself to a cheap purchase from amazon and feel inspired.