So a little update on my continuing hull experiences. As i type we've been a little starved for decent waves (though hopefully that will change this week) but there have been odd little semi clean sessions. I've been surfing the hull a fair amount and had what can only be described as a pretty shocking wave on it on my last outing. Paddled into a chest high right which stood up as it hit the inside bank. I dropped down the face with a fair bit of speed as the wave prepared to section a good fifteen feet ahead, i crouched, banked over on my inside rail and a split second later i was past the section, trimming in a high line at what felt like mach ten. Felt like a true glimpse of the speed hulls are known for. In fact someone dropped in on me, past the section (i'm hoping because he assumed i wouldn't make it round, not just because he was a kook!) I had so much speed i actually overtook him on my next bottom turn before kicking out as the wave prepared to close out.
I paddled back out hooting myself and sat for a good few seconds slightly bemused by what just happened. As i've said before, they aren't for everyone, they are quirky to ride and probably more about the individual experience than impressing passers by with your radness, but they sure are fun and i don't think i've experienced as much speed with as little effort on a wave that size before!
4 comments:
Excellent, how do you find it paddles?
paddles fine, a little sluggish but no worse than my 5'9 fish
paddles fine, a little sluggish but no worse than my 5'9 fish
nicely said- you have taken a bite of the forbidden fruit- welcome to the obsession
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