Beach grooming, Les Dunes
Thursday, 13 October 2016
Monday, 10 October 2016
Part of the reason I've been time poor is because of this photo, or specifically the physical effort required to take it. First light breaking over Chamonix at the beginning of another big day of riding in the mountains climbing some of this years tour climbs. Sights like this made all the miles and hours of Devon hills worth it.
Thursday, 6 October 2016
I haven't written many posts of late. Life seems so busy and sometimes its difficult to find the time to obsess over the minutae of surfing. I think too that the blogosphere isn't as vibrant as it once was. our ever shortening attention span is drawn more and more to the quick hit and immediacy of tweets and Instagram captions. I guess i'm as guilty as anyone of this - my Instagram gets updated more regularly than here if i'm honest. Still its nice to ramble a little when I get the chance.
Autumn is shaping up to be a classic this year with some solid fun size swell and plenty of offshores. The water is still warm and it's been a chance to rotate quite a few boards through the van from my quiver. My favorite board changes with every few days. Honorable mentions to the 9'4 Slimpig, 5'4 superchunk and my Howard special egg.
Monday, 12 September 2016
With the new parking arrangements at saunton, i've ended up surfing P-land a bunch over the summer. Its a maligned wave in many respects, oft overlooked unless the wind is wrong elsewhere. In truth it can be a lot of fun on a log or a fishy shortie, especially if you catch the right banks.
Tuesday, 6 September 2016
Saturday, 20 August 2016
Whenever I travel to surf, it always strikes me how much easier it is to be a surfer in some other places - California and Hawaii are great examples. There's almost always a wave somewhere and generally there's going to be somewhere the wind is reasonably favourable or the bottomshape is strong enough to keep the wave quality ok. I honestly think people in these places wouldn't bother to get in the water in half the stuff we regularly paddle out in. Surfing is just "there" to take or leave as life allows. You don't need to be quite as obsessive as UK surfers often "need" to be
point I'm making is how "on it" you need to be to get any good at surfing here. Almost everyone I know tries to keep their schedule as flexible as possible, constantly keeping an eye on the tide and forecast hoping to create a slot of freetime at the right time.
I'm lucky, I work 5 minutes from the beach and whilst I cant always pick the perfect time to get there, I can find a slot most days there are waves. Then its just a case of having a quiver of the right boards in the mobile garage that my van constitutes and hoping the summer traffic isn't too bad.
Lomo LCa picture from just after a springtime liquid lunch
Monday, 15 August 2016
Thursday, 11 August 2016
So i've had a good chance to put my new gulfstream log through it's paces over the summer so far, both here and in some zippy French beach break.
I can honestly say it's one of the best longboards I've owned. Its got the perfect mix of solid noseriding and whippy turns and I'm increasingly convinced that this type of slimmed out, wide point back template flat out works, especially in the choppier conditions we get lots of.
It seems like more and more people world wide are moving towards this kind of board - almost everyone at the recent joel tudor duct tape at the US open was riding something similar.
while I haven't got a clip of the Slimpig in action, this clip of CJ Nelson in mexico on his Australian Slasher model shows exactly the kind of surfing that the slim pig is designed to do. Note how much more aggressive his cutbacks are
footage of him riding a more classic noserider template. click the link to watch, it wont embed for some reason!