Monday, 23 November 2015
I think Doheny is probably the spot that ive surfed most in California, mainly through it's convnience to the a couple of the condos we've stayed in. It kind of gets a bad rep amongst the wider surf world for being fat, slow and busy but its a fun wave with a mellow crowd and some really good longboarders across several generations. This particular sunday it was baking on the beach and busy in the water with glassy head high sets rolling through in boardshort temperature water. A classic californian beach day shared with the three G's (thats you Threadills! :-))
Monday, 16 November 2015
Wednesday, 11 November 2015
ONE SESSION WITH: DANE PETERSON from travis kuhlman on Vimeo.
Turns out i cant embed this video here but it's worth clicking the link. Sure malibu is a perfect logging wave but DP makes it look so easy. I love his understated style and catlike movements. He's definately a big influence on my own surfing. His board in the clip is very similar to my if6was9 log, piggy shape, greenough fin, not too much foam and i personally think its where a good modern log should be right now. Still noserides great in the pocket but turns smoothly too.
Friday, 6 November 2015
What a great run of autumn swell we've had! Definately been keping the stokeometer up and most of the quiver in heavy rotation. Curent boards in the van are the if6was9 modlog dane peterson influenced 9'4, the 5'2 TW bar of soap and the gulfstream 5'6 twin keel which absolutely flies and i cant believe i allowed it to languish un-loved in the board store for such a long time!
Friday, 23 October 2015
Monday, 19 October 2015
The next installment of views from california. This is a glassy set wave peaking up at The Hook, just south of Pleasure point in Santa Cruz. Lovely short paddle out in giant lulls through kelp beds then slightly overhead reeling right handers section chasing down the point. This particular morning was unusually quiet compared to other times i checked it. The kelp was so thick in places you could feel it pulling at your fins and leash, alomost enough to pull you out of the wave at times. It sounds weird but you could almost imagine getting tied up in the fronds underwater when you duck dived or wiped out. It was too fast for a log, i rode the seapea but even that had a little bit too much foam. My friend Matt from SF loves this wave on a fish and i can really see it being a great board selection.
Wednesday, 14 October 2015
George with all the beach essentials! Thats my old Dano Old pleasure which has found an appreciative new home with Mr Barrett. I loved the shape but always found it had a little bit too much heft for my diminutive size to man handle in our beach break waves. It suits George to a tee and i always enjoy watching him pilot it through a busy saunton line-up
Tuesday, 6 October 2015
Much a i like the immediacy and convenience of having a camera and editing software in my iphone shaped trouser pocket, shooting film is still the best. Manipulating an instagram picture this much might seem contrived and yet this is just a straight 120 film scan from my holga complete with light bleed and weird colout cast from the cross processing. I love the fact that you never know exactly how the picture is going to turn out until you scan the negative.
I'm pretty stoked on this one. It's from the county fairground parking lot in Ventura at the top of the C street point, somewhere i surfed quite a few times on this trip. Although the Santa Barabara/ Rincon area is littered with right hand points, most of them only properly wake up in winter when the swells come from the north. In summer, C street is the go for many locals and it is a really fun wave on a log when its small or a fish when its bigger. Despite the crowd, it's pretty mellow in the water and usually has multiple sections / take off spots to thin the pressure on the sets.
As with most of the waves i surfed, even on days that the locals considered sub-par, it was better than 99% of the waves i surf at home.
Thursday, 1 October 2015
The drive from Carmel at the south end of monterey through Big Sur and down to Hearst Castle is just jaw droppingly beautiful. It's difficult to keep your eyes on the highway as it twists it's way from headland to headland for 50 miles or so. It's impossible not to keep screeching to a halt every couple of miles to drink in the next stunning vista that just revealed itself. This is maybe halfway down, mid afternoon and one of many such photo stops.
Saturday, 26 September 2015
With a summer south swell, Highway 1 on the mid-californian coast is peppered with little gems. This is just north of Cayucos and brought our tyres screeching to a halt. It's not in the guide books and it would be easy to miss but it was a fun right hander with a pretty much flat water paddle out from the little bay in the foreground. Long period swell and glassy conditions with a little bit of kelp to smooth the chop certainly helped too