However, autumn is a great time of year for clean swells and the last few days of sun. Some of my favorite ever surfs have been trading small waves & smiles with friends, watching the sun go down, catching a wave in by feel alone & stumbling up the beach in the dark. I've been lucky enough to have a couple of sessions like this recently, reminders of years gone past when the crowds were fewer and you knew every face in the water. Fun times.........
Thursday, 17 September 2009
I'm not a big fan of winter (unless i'm in the mountains) so it's always with a certain amount of sadness that i watch summer end, the nights draw in and after work surfs finish for another few months. Something about facing up to the inevitability of having to don even more rubber in chilly car parks to get a few waves for the next 8 months brings with it a sense of melancholy.