Saturday, 10 July 2010

the skipper

Tourmaline, despite being designated an "official surfing park" is never going to make headlines on it's wave quality alone. In fact on an average day it bares a very close resemblance to my local spot being a lined up mushy beachbreak. It is, however, a lot of fun on a loggy board and has a pretty vibrant local scene, with friendly talented locals in the line up.

It's also Skip Frye's local beach and i have to admit that sharing the lineup with him was one of the highlights of my trip. He's still a REALLY good surfer, always in the right spot to take off with minimum effort. Lithely bounding to his feet with a grace that belies his age. Eaking every last moment of trim out of each little peeler before paddling back out with a smile.

I'd love to say that i managed to pick up one of his boards as well, a nice Eagle or something, and i did see a couple for sale, but at $1500 - $2500 second hand, even i couldn't justify it.


Steve PP said...

Nice! Is that stone monument new , it wasn't there a few summers ago when I visited?
I saw Skip out at Cardiff , and you're right , he still has it!

Anonymous said...

"even I couldn't justify it"

hahahahahahahahaha..... the true tale of a board horder, classic!

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