Tuesday, 6 July 2010

malibu madness


So California......

This is pretty much my favorite photo from the whole trip and it was one of the first i took, although i guess the composition is hardly original. The owner of these two was pretty much the standout that afternoon, super smooth and stylish.

I took it just after my first surf of the trip on a 9'4 anderson breakwater (nice log!) i rented from Chad Marshall at Mollusc in Venice while i waited for Dano to finish my board.

It's hard to describe quite how excited i was when we pulled up to see flawless waist - chest high glassy waves peeling down first point with only about 15 people out. It's such a good logging wave, not too fast not too slow, fully justified of all the hype, so easy to perch on the nose, cutback once you outrun the section and perch again. Makes you wonder how good we could all be if we got waves like that more often.

The rub, of course, is getting a few to yourself without getting in a fight! Even with so few surfers in the water, it was carnage. There was a pretty wide range of ability (weirdly the most aggro person being some of those well down the ability order) and with very little general drop in etiquette. Even so, just one of those waves would have had me ready to spend the airfare again......

6 comments:

Wheardo said...

Nice post! Oooh it's just made me want to down tools and ship over there again.

Steve PP said...

Chris,
I had the exact same emotions and experiences as you at the holy grail!

So true! Aaaaahhh Malibu!

Wheardo said...

This makes me want to down tools and ship over there again, love it.

Christian said...

Sadly, Malibu is one of those spots I drive right on by. As you said, there's just not a lot of politeness and order out there. But still...when you rope one of those it's so great!

Beetlejuice said...

At least there's some babes in the lineup! :)

Esteban Pumpernickel said...

luckily, i have lived close enough to malibu to not care about the over hyped waves and the countless bro bra hipsters the use it as a launching pad for their clothing lines and shitty art shows. You guys can have it. the wave is shit 72% of the time 89% of the year... pose at will... better all around waves within 100 miles of there.

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