Friday, 30 July 2010

the forgotten master..



When i really got into surfing, joel tudor was my first surfing hero, a beacon of smooth style amongst a sea of flapping shortboarders on impractical equipment. I know that some people have reservations about his personality, i've never met him. (i must admit to hoping to see him surf in California but no luck!)
What you cannot deny is his influence on the direction of non-mainstream surfing over the last 15 years. From ushering in a return to traditional style and heavy single fin logs, to prompting a re investigation of forgotten shortboard designs, his influence cannot be understated. In recent times he has stepped a little away from the spotlight, devoting much of his time to taking care of his son. His surfing is still as good as it ever was, smooth understated with a casualness that belies the technicality and positioning of the lines he draws.

This section, from cyrus sutton's riding waves was one of my favorite bits of footage for a long time. i still think if you wanted a short segment to show someone the grace of good traditional logging, you'd be hard pressed to find a better example. Slightly forgotten it's back in rotation on my dvd player this summer.

5 comments:

kk said...

Totally agree - JT is too often taken for granted nowadays, but he was a pioneer and swam against the current for years. And how many longboarders, in fact, how many surfers period, can paddle out at Pipe on a single fin with no leash and get their share of quality tube time. You don't see too many other So Cal longboarders doing that...

jamie said...

just wasted another 5 mins watching that for the millionth time. Wonder when Joel Tudor became a regular foot though? JB

Squirrel Brand said...

Hi Chris, would it be possible for Tim Mason to leave my Hull with you until I get back from Norfolk ? I don't trust my ham fisted friends with it. Cheers, Tom (Swimbridge).

CP said...

Hi tim

That's no problem. I think he hopefully has a board for me too. When is he coming?

Squirrel Brand said...

This weekend !!!!!!!

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