Thursday, 17 June 2010

in full bloom

Back home and lucked into a week of small clean and sunny waves. If it was actually like this all summer you'd barely need to consider visiting california, though a nice cobblestone righthanded point or three wouldn't go amiss either!

It's been great to get my new Dano Old Pleasure (pics to follow) out in waves that i know really well and begin to properly get to know it. Impressions so far are really good. It's heavy and is less foiled than i expected but that is probably no bad thing especially as saunton is hardly a racetrack type wave. It's pig influenced wide point back shape mean you have to use your feet but with your weight right on the tail it is the loosest noserider i have (possibly have ridden) and even though the nose is only 17.25 it locks in really solidly on the nose in the pocket. It's definately designed for surfing in the pocket and feels sluggish if you try and get too far away from the wave's power zone. It definately likes a bit of "body english" cutbacks feel sweet if you really throw your weight through the back foot in a more exaggerated fashion than my more paralell templated noseriders demand, but the reward is a really sweet feeling pivoty cutback. It's easy to see how surfers like Knost's style has developed riding these sorts of boards.

Forecast looks promising over the weekend for further testing and i'll post some photos once i've finished scanning the film!

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