Sunday, 28 June 2009


With our prevailing wind direction being onshore and surfing mostly beach breaks we have to deal with a lot of short period windswell, 6 or 7 second period, stuff our californian colleagues would not step into a wet wetsuit for and waves your average east coast US surfer is used to (albeit with much warmer water)
If you're in the right mood, it's big enough and you can face the marathon paddle outs, it can still be a lot of fun. I still find it only takes one good wave in a session to push lifes trials and tribulations to a far corner of the mind.

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