Wednesday, 24 September 2014
So the "indian" summer continues with a particularly over hyped swell on the weekend. Up here it didnt really show until sunday by which time i think almost everyone that owns a surfbpoard east of exeter was in the water. Croyde would probably have allowed you to cross the bay with dry feet using peoples heads as stepping stones. Saunton meanwhile had surfers as far as the eye could see by 8am and the car park shut by midday.
In the end, the long period affected the quality and as the tide dropped it was the smaller insiders that kept their shape rather than closing out. Very much a no-cutback day.
Monday dawn patrol brought slightly smaller waves but as clean and fun as you like with a crowd of mostly locals to fight over them. I rode a twin keel fish for the first time in a while and had a ball.