Friday, 25 April 2014
a glass half full
So the sun is slowly warming things up towards summer and the winter's storms are left behind.
It's not been a banner year for my winter surfing, in fact i think this might have been the least i've surfed in the 13 winters i've spent on the coast. It's not been from lack of swell but from lack of oppurtunity to drive away from the brunt of the storm and find the sheltered nooks, a slight dwindling in the desire to change in a freezing car park in driving rain, to paddle out through lines and lines of whitewater. Perhaps a shying away from the constant low grade misery and grind that is associated with surfing in this country. You have to want it to keep going through the cold and the onshores, to push yourself out into power and size outside your comfort zone.
I'm most definately a small wave surfer and as i get older i think i'm becoming more comfortable with being that and feel less like i have to play the peer pressure games of pub based bravado. I know i wont forget how to surf if i dont get wet for a couple of weeks. It's a perspective and balance that you probably shouldn't show in the heady world of online blogging surf obsession but it serves you better in real life.
Summer is what i look forward to, long hours of light, warmer water, small lined up swells and fun.
Hibernation is over and i'm waking up.