Monday, 11 October 2010

a private view


Behind the scenes, work on getting the surfing museum off and running by next summer is in full swing. At the moment the collection is housed in a store at a secret location. Last week i spent a couple of hours lugging boards around helping out on a photo shoot. It's the first time i've been to the store and seen the whole collection, the place is a true Aladdin's cave of surfing memorabilia. There are some beautiful vintage and not so vintage boards and loads of posters, newspaper clippings, belly boards, old boardshorts and wetsuits.

The pic above (not mine i might add) shows an old Tiki board catalogue and an old photo from Putsborough in May 1965. It's a weirdly timeless image, a longboarder in forward trim in shorts and a neoprene jacket, it could just have believably been taken this week & posted on a blog from So Cal!

See more pics from the shoot here

Hopefully everyone got some waves this weekend. There was plenty of swell around up here on friday and saturday but plenty of wind and plenty of people. Still there was some fun and some beatings to be had if you were in the right (or the wrong) place at the right time. I saw one friend who suffered a scary post leash breaking swim in at croyde and another local that has an arm in plaster after an incident at Saunton on friday evening!

Sunday brought some really fun logging waves despite the kooks and it was fun to get back on a board over 6 foot for a few. Pretty much flat today unfortunately but at least it's sunny.

The green gulfstream below still needs a good home.....

2 comments:

Matt said...

Hey Chris.
Finally got a proper look at the blog. Very nice. Good to hear there are waves over there. Museum sounds good to. Ocean Beach has been firing last few weeks. Plenty of waves, long paddles and hold downs! Also getting some interest in belly boards-made a few too! Hope the super 8 worked.
Matt

CP said...

Hi Matt

Really good to hear from you and that you're adjusting (manning up?;-) to life in SF. Super 8 didn't work sadly but i bought a cheap one off ebay so i'm waiting for a good day to waste some film!

The museum has probably 60 belly boards from as far back as the 20's! weirdly seems like they are a very british thing!

stay in touch!

chris

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