I'm not a big fan of winter (unless i'm in the mountains) so it's always with a certain amount of sadness that i watch summer end, the nights draw in and after work surfs finish for another few months. Something about facing up to the inevitability of having to don even more rubber in chilly car parks to get a few waves for the next 8 months brings with it a sense of melancholy.
However, autumn is a great time of year for clean swells and the last few days of sun. Some of my favorite ever surfs have been trading small waves & smiles with friends, watching the sun go down, catching a wave in by feel alone & stumbling up the beach in the dark. I've been lucky enough to have a couple of sessions like this recently, reminders of years gone past when the crowds were fewer and you knew every face in the water. Fun times.........
Another distinctly lomo style digital hero shot. Still unsure if it's possible to call a shot taken on a low quality digital camera "lo-fi" or whether the fact that it's a digital media to start with makes that a misnomer. Whatever, it sure was another fun sunset session.
I'm not a big fan of winter (unless i'm in the mountains) so it's always with a certain amount of sadness that i watch summer end, the nights draw in and after work surfs finish for another few months. Something about facing up to the inevitability of having to don even more rubber in chilly car parks to get a few waves for the next 8 months brings with it a sense of melancholy.
Maybe it's my rose tinted specs but i'm sure a few years ago summer was filled with balmy light evenings, the beaches graced with small clean logging waves and the world's cares were far from the minds of the locals as we traded waves & smiles. I'm probably just getting old but the last few summers seem to have been woefully lacking in perfect summer swells, the crowds seem bigger. I started this summer full of optimism as usual and May didn't really disappoint but July and August have seemed like midwinter in parts. I remember a few sessions at P-land battling horizontal rain which made the beach look more like January. Already there's a nip in the air in the mornings and the light is fading faster in the evenings. Our best hope is for another good september filled with light winds and deep lows pitched in the mid atlantic. There's always hope...
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