< just add tourists!
I had a fun surf last night at semi-clean 3 foot saunton. First time in a 3/2 this year which is always a pleasure. I came to the conclusion that i am lucky enough to own some bitchin' boards at the moment, yesterday's steed was my 5'9 Bro diplock quad, heavily based on Mani Caros template with AK4 fins. Turns like it's on rails and a lovely spring from the fins out of the turn. Good times.
I recently came across easytom's blog detailing his learning to surf adventures and the lessons therein. He's right at the beginning of a wonderful adventure, just at the cusp of full blown obsession. It's good advice for newbies and a fun reminder of when it was all new and exciting for the old salts. It's a long slippery slope from here that can only end with him living in a car with only a dog and a tide table for company
getting lost by bike
1 day ago